How the Ragamuffin began

There were a group of breeders that worked with the original Ragdoll breed.  They found ALL the colors and patterns to be desireable, so they took their ORGINAL Ragdolls and began the RagaMuffins.  They purpose was to purfect the personality, build, coat and HEALTH of the breed, and not focus on the color and pattern.  RagaMuffins CELIBRATE ALL COLORS AND PATTERNS!  

Physical Diffences

The RagMuffin is a relatively new breed. We are still working on perfecting the diffences between the ragdoll and the RagaMuffin.  Right now, many of the RagaMuffins will not have a noticeable difference, but as the breed continues, these are the technical diffences we are looking for.

Technical Diffences

 Slight cranial doming and rounded skull between the ears (Ragdoll calls for flat plane between the ears). 

Ears tipped forward as if listening (Ragdoll ears are flared and to the side). 

Large Walnut shaped eyes (Ragdoll calls for almond shaped eyes). 

Recognized in all colors and patterns. (Ragdoll are accepted in 4 colors and 3 patterns). 

Concavity to the nose, giving the impression of a scoop (Ragdoll calls for break or slope). 

Coat medium to medium long. Their coats tend to be a little shorter, thicker and very plush, like that of a rabbit. (Ragdoll breeds for moderately long coat, very silky and fine, almost like that of a guinea pig.). 

Long rectangular bodies (Ragdoll calls for squarer bodies ). 

 Colors/Patterns

   There are 3 types of colors for Ragdolls and RagaMuffins

Solid = This does not mean they are all one color.  This means they are born with there color.  This is the common "barn cat" type coloring.  These cats can be any color including black.  Their eyes are usually yellow/copper or green.

Points = This is commonly known as the "siamese" coloring.  It is born completely white and their color comes in after a few weeks.  If there is no white on this cat, all the "points" (nose, feet,ears and tail) will be darker than the body.  Their eyes are blue.  

Mink = There is NO diffence in the FEEL of this fur, only the intensity of the color.  This cat is born with a slight shade of what their color will be.  Their eyes are usually aqua. 

Ragdolls can only be shown as Pointed (not soilid or mink).   

   There are 3 basic colors with Ragdolls:

Seal  (Brown)     ~ dilute = Chocolate

Blue  (Grey)       ~ dilute = Lilac

Red   (Orange)  ~ dilute = Cream

    Since RagaMuffins can be any color, It helps to know the basic colors but there are MANY variations of these colors.

   There are 3 basic patterns for Ragdolls:

Color Point (no white)

Mitted (white chin, white mitts on the front toes, and white boots on the back legs)

Bicolor (put a "V" upside down on face and the bottom part should be white. Pink nose. often called the "masked look".  If you put an imaginary saddle on the back, that is where the color is, the rest is white.  Dark tail and ears) 

Care Guide, Tips, and My Opinions

Following are a few things that I think will help you and your new kitten adjust to each other with the lease amount of stress for both of you. The RagaMuffins and Ragdolls are generally a healthy breed. Use a god Veterinarian, furnish good nutrition, keep him/her indoors, give lots of love and your kittens should enjoy a long and healthy life. If you ever feel that I can help you in any way, please do not hesitate to call…. I especially love to just hear how your new baby is doing! I also LOVE pictures! 

FEEDING 

We are currently feeding Diamond Kitten food. You can find this at most feed stores or Tractor Supply Company. This is a premium food that is similar to Iams. You can feed your new kitten what ever you choose, just make sure that it is a nutritious product. We do not feed canned food except to mix in additives. (i.e., vitamins or medicines) 

FRESH WATER!!!!

Fresh water should ALWAYS be available. It is recommended that you use steam distilled water. Do give them water that you wouldn’t drink. It is very important cats to drink a lot of water! The bowl should be washed with hot soapy water once a day. It is best to use stainless steel or crockery water and food dishes. It is good to use some sort of water fountain.  

GROOMING

Brushing and Combing: All kittens should be combed every day if possible. You will remove loose hairs, thus keeping them off your furniture and carpets and out of kitty’s digestive system. There are a multitude of products for fresh breath and clean teeth if you should need one. 

Bathing; Kitties should have their faces washed occasionally with a washcloth and warm water. Pay close attention to the eyes and nose. Adult cats should be bathed a couple times a year. 

Nails; Clip nails every second week. I use human nail clippers catching the hook and clipping at the spot where the nail begins to curve. If you will massage your kitten’s paws while he is in your lap; he will become used to your handling them and will not be upset when you begin to clip. Remember to clip the dewclaw as well. Be sure to provide your kitty with a good quality scratching post. They are generally very found of those with sisal rope on them. A tight carpet is good also. The loose fluffy carpet is the least desirable. The scratching post should be on slant if possible, as it seems to be the desire position. It also needs to be tall enough for him/her to stretch out completely. This is necessary for proper muscle development. If you provide kitty with a good scratching post and keep his nails trimmed, you probably will have no difficulty with your furnishings. There are a few deterrents that can be used if kitty is scratching something he/she shouldn’t. Double stick tape can be place on the places that he/she likes to scratch. You can lap aluminum foil on the counters, or squirt them with a water bottom when they display undesirable behaviors. As most breeders, I frown on de-clawing as it is a maiming procedure. There are products on the market that can be placed over the claw much like an artificial nail. There is an alternative surgery called a tendonectomy. This surgery allows kitty to retain the claw but it cannot extend them. This is LESS maiming but does require that the owner still clip the claws. 

FLEA CONTROL 

Advantage or Frontline is a real blessing! It is a liquid applied to the back of the neck once a month. It is not absorbed into the blood stream; but rather attaches itself to the base of the hairs creating a “flea shield” around the cat. It kills 98% of the fleas on a cat in 24 hours and continues to work for 30 days. ONLY get flea treatment that is recommended by your vet! DO NOT GET OVER THE COUNTER TREAMTENTS! 

BONDING 

During the first few days your kitten is home it is so exciting to watch them explore and see what their reactions are to carious things-the kids, the dog, the other cats, etc. However, your kitten will be happiest if you confine him/her to a small space at first. Feed him/her in this room, have his litter box there, spend as much time with him/her as you can. Do not have too many toys-you should be the big toy-he/she will sleep most of the time you are not in the room. If you will do this, and then gradually allow him time out of the room; he will bond to you and be friends with the other animals etc. If you just let him go, he is likely to bond to the dog or another cat and just be your friend. Give lots of love and you will have the most wonderful pet you could ever imagine. 

TOYS 

These kids love toys. They’ll love the toys you buy them---and the toys they pick out themselves---your pens, your papers, the toilet paper, etc. Catnip mice (little cloth ones) are a favorite, crocheted “worms”, balls, ping pong balls in the bath tub are a riot! 

LITTER BOXES 

We have tried them ALL! I was not too impressed with the “litter maid”. It seemed to keep coming off track and it was a messier job cleaning the poo off the rack than just scooping it out of the box. I really like the 3 piece sifter boxes. You can get them for $10 at Walmart, or $20 at Petsmart. If you end up with a high kicker, you can try a closed litter box, or a storage container approximately 2’ X 1.5’ and about 2 ‘ tall. As he/she grows, you can get taller ones. There is nothing special about a box that says “litter box.” It’s a plastic box!! I suggest with a small kitten that you have a litter box and both ends of the house. It is a lot to expect a toddler to make from one end of the house to the other “in time”. It is best for your kitten to use a NON-CLUMPING litter. Clumping litter contain silica dust which is harmful to you and the kitten- it is actually a carcinogen- and the additive that makes the clumping litter clump is extremely harmful to your kitten’s intestinal tract as it is ingested during grooming. That slime will coat the intestinal tract and interfere with assimilation of nutrients. There is a CLUMPING litter that is NATURAL. It is called FRESH RESULTS at Walmart. 

VACCINES

The RagaMuffin/Ragdolls seem to be a little more sensitive to vaccinations than other cats. For that reason, you should split the shots. For instance, give the distemper (FVRCP) booster and the Rabies several weeks after that. Some people who have allowed the Vet to give more than one vaccine at the same time have experienced some pretty sick kitties for a few days. I know of one kitten that died from a reaction to the vaccines. It’s just of much for some of them to handle. Your kitten has received it’s distemper shots at 8 and 12 weeks of age. There is a new Rabies vaccine especially for cats. I strongly recommend that you use it. It is called PureVax. If there is no possibility that kitten will be exposed to a situation where it is possible to contract FeLV (Feline Leukemia), I strongly recommend that you opt to forego this vaccine/ However, if your cat is ever allowed to go outside (on a leash, of course!), you have an indoor/outdoor cat, or you ever consider bringing a stray cat into your home, you should definitely have kitty vaccinated for Feline Leukemia. 

This is the current vaccination protocol recommended for Ragdolls and RagaMuffins; 

Kitten Series---FVRCP, exclude Chlamydia. Booster 1 year after last kitten FVRCP is given, thereafter every 3 years. Rabies --- as required by law. Feline Leukemia Vaccine -- unless there is compelling reason for giving it, DON”T.       FIP or FIV – UNDER NO CONDITIONS SHOULD YOU GIVE THESE VACCINE! ADMINISTRATION OF THESE VACCINES WILL VOID ALL HEALTH GUARANTEES. 

It is believed that vaccines for ringworm, giarrdia, etc are ineffective and not necessary. That you may actually be “asking for trouble” if you use them. The protocol recommended is contrary to traditional vaccination protocol and you may have to stand your ground in order to avoid additional and unnecessary vaccinations. 

ALTERING 

Contrary to what a lot of breeders will tell you, there are many reasons NOT to “Early Alter” (spay/neuter). I have researched and found evidence proving the risk of this practice. The ONLY benefit of “early altering” is to control the unauthorized breeding of the kitten. For this reason, I chose to TRUST the new owner of the kitten to act responsibly and honestly and not breed the kitten unless you have obtained permission to do so. Also, to have you new kitten altered when he/she reaches maturity (see below). 

Females altered BEFORE the first heat have a lower risk of developing breast cancer. There is NO advantage in letting a female go through a heat before altering. It is preferred that a female not be altered during her heat cycle. 

Males may mature (and be fertile) as early as 7 months! You see that he is developing “stud tail” – a waxy-like deposit on the top of his tail about a quarter way up the tail from the rump, and then when his urine develops a strong odor- it is time for his surgery. It si best not to alter the male until it is obvious that he has matured as his head and muscle structure develops differently if altered too young. When the male hormone begins to kick in, the head becomes larger and broader and the neck thickens, making that great beautiful boy a VERY HANDSOME young man. If he is altered before his hormones kick in the head remains smaller (more feminine looking) when he is older. A male altered too early does not develop the muscle tone or bone density of one altered at maturity.